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Q: What does foundation repair cost? A: Foundation repair varies in cost from structure to structure. Some structures require more piers than others, each structure must be inspected by a trained professional in order to determine the extent of the repair needed. Q: How long does it take to repair the typical home? A: Most homes can be repaired in 2 days. Some homes can take up to 5 days while a lot of others will only need 1 day. Q: Will my yard and landscaping be destroyed? A: In most cases, you will notice minimal disturbance to your yard and landscape. Some extreme cases will require more digging and disturbance. We hand dig all of our holes and we use plastic to protect your lawn during the process. Q: Why are there so many repair methods? A: Different companies use different methods to repair slab foundations. The warranty period is the big difference between what method will last, and what method is a temporary fix. We decided on the Dual-Pier method because we want to offer a lifetime warranty and have a product that will truly last. Q: Will I be able to stay in my house during the repair? A: In most cases, yes. If your home requires extensive interior piering, you might need to make arrangements for 1 or 2 nights to avoid any inconvenience. These cases are extreme and not very common at all. Q: How long will my yard be dug up? A: Usually 2 days, in some cases it will be 1 day or a maximum of 5 days. There is no drying time with our method because we use a pre-cast pier. Q: Should I hire a "Foundation Repair Consultant"? A: Yes, a licensed structural engineer is well worth the money, not all engineers are created equal. Be diligent in your search for an engineer, ask friends, neighbors or relatives who have had foundation repair. AVOID non-licensed "Consultants" who charge a fee, the only people who should charge you a fee for an evaluation is a licensed structural engineer, and a reputable engineer will charge between $450 and $600, avoid the bargain engineers, you truly get what you pay for. What repair methods to avoid: There are many methods being used for foundation repair. Some of these methods were tried in the 60's and 70's with limited or no success. Due to the soil conditions we have in this part of Texas, the only successful methods for repairing slab foundations involve pressing a pier into the sub-strata and building a resistance using the weight of the building to determine maximum depth. These are some of the methods you might encounter during your research into foundation repair. Each method has it's pro's and con's listed: Poured Beam: A trench is hand dug approximately 5’ long and 2’ deep. It is then formed with wood and rebar, and poured full of concrete. After a drying period of 2-4 weeks, the house is raised on top of this beam. Some companies might use railroad crossties in this beam.
Pro's: This system can be installed cheaper than most other foundation repair methods. In foundation repair, you truly "get what you pay for". Con's: No ground penetration, no engineered design for actual support. Failure rate is unacceptable due to lack of depth. Poured concrete is less than 3000psi. Landscape disturbance is high due to the length of the beam and the amount of soil that must be dug out. These "trenches" stay open during the concrete's 2-4 week drying process. The concrete beam is poured right into the same ground that is letting the foundation beam settle. Poured Concrete or Drilled Pier: A hole is drilled with an auger to a depth between 8-12'. Then rebar is placed in the hole and concrete is poured. The concrete is allowed to dry between 2-4 weeks. Then the structure is raised on these piers.
Pro's: This system has no real advantage when compared to the affordability of pressed pilings. The cost is typically similar. Con's: Poured piers have a failure rate of more than 50% after 5 years. These piers are poured in at a specific depth, therefore they cannot contour to the sub-strata to achieve maximum effectiveness. Again, the pier holes stay open during the concrete drying process, leaving your yard and landscaping in a mess for up to 4 weeks.
Steel Pier A 2 7/8" to 3 1/2" well casing is pressed into the ground to a resistance of 5000psi. The pier is then topped with a special bracket which attaches to the beam of the foundation. The structure is then lifted using this bracket.
Pro's: Steel piers are favored over drilled piers because of their lifting ability. They are pressed into the substrata to a resistance which provides usable support for the structure. Con's: Steel piers deteriorate quickly in the high alkalinity Texas soil. These piers are typically pressed to 5000psi, which is really not enough for a single story brick home. Our Dual-Piers are pressed to 6000psi minimum. Steel Piers are more expensive and they will rust and corrode over time, leaving the house with no further support.
Mud Jacking or Pressure Grouting: Many foundation repair contractors, as well as structural engineers, like to use piers on the perimeter grade beams to repair failed foundation beams and to use pressure grouting on foundations with interior failure such as sinking or sagging floors. Pressure grouting is a procedure which involves drilling (1 5/8") one and five-eighths inch diameter holes through the floor in the affected area, bringing in a hose, typically the size of a fire hose, with a nozzle that fits in the holes and pumping a thick mud grout under the floor. The grout is usually comprised of sandy loam soil, water and about (12%) twelve percent cement. The grout is pumped under the foundation with several hundred pounds of pressure until all voids are filled and the backpressure lifts the foundation to where it needs to be. Pressure grouting has been successfully used to lift streets, porches, and driveways at a cost much lower than replacement, but Accu-Pier does not recommend the use of pressure grouting on homes or buildings for several reasons. One main reason is that pressure grouting is a process, which cannot be fully controlled by the contractor once the grout leaves the nozzle. The grout always takes the path of least resistance, which means once it leaves the nozzle the grout can come up through bathtub, leave outs, shallow areas of concrete flooring, etc. The main danger that the pressure grouting process poses is to plumbing under the foundation. As the backpressure increases, the foundation begins to raise and the possibility of plumbing lines separating increases. The moment a sewer line breaks, the grout starts entering the line and the cement can set before a plumber can clean it out. Once the grout sets, the plumbing line has to be broken out and replaced. As the homeowner, you are responsible for this! BEWARE!
Pressure grouting also tends to be a temporary method of repair. In order for the grout to hold the foundation in position it depends on the soil beneath it to remain in place. If the soil moves due to loss of moisture then the grout will not de able to hold the load. Accu-Pier installs Interior Dual-Piers and accomplishes all lifting with them. The property owner can then have a plumber test for leaks in the plumbing lines and the property owner has the opportunity to repair the leaks. Pressure grouting is great for
driveways, sidewalks and streets, but should not be used on a concrete slab
foundation as the possibility of severe damage can far outweigh the benefit of
the pressure grouting.
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